Creation date / All
Stockton STEM Badge LEDs
Notice how the LEDs typically have one leg longer than the other; this is called the "anode". The colored case also has one flat side, opposite the longer leg; the leg on this side is called the "cathode". Also, note the distinctive shape of what is inside the colored case; this can also be used to help determine its orientation. The gap at the top of the metal surface is always on the anode side. LEDs can only be used the right way round so determining orientation is important.
Stockton STEM Badge LEDs
The case of an LED can crack if the legs are bent too close to it; even after placing the LED on the board, only bend the legs slightly to hold it in place.
Stockton STEM Badge capacitors
The capacitors smooth the power on the badge. The top capacitor, is not polarity sensitive; that is, it can be used either way round. The other capacitor must be used only the correct way round; the case has a "-" symbol printed on it.
Stockton STEM Badge LEDs
While all components can be destroyed with an excess of heat during soldering, LEDs are especially susceptible to this.
Stockton STEM Badge completed
Press the button to start the lights!
Stockton STEM Badge LEDs
Green and blue LEDs
Stockton STEM Badge components
The badge consists of a handful of electronic components. Components R1, R5 and J1 are not normally populated.
Stockton STEM Badge resistors
These are 47 ohm resistors; they limit the current supplied to the orange, yellow and green LEDs. The blue LED does not require one.
Stockton STEM Badge LEDs
The footprint for the LEDs also shows a flat edge; orientation of the LEDs needs to match that of the board.
Stockton STEM Badge battery
The battery is a typical CR2032 button cell. Notice which side the "+" is on.
Stockton STEM Badge IC and socket
The chip, an integrated circuit, or IC, must also be used the correct way round. Both the chip and its socket have a notch at one end to identify its orientation.
Stockton STEM Badge components
Stockton STEM Badge IC
Once pushed all the way in, the IC may sit above the socket, but it will be parallel to it.
Stockton STEM Badge electrolytic capacitor
Electrolytic capacitors are polarity sensitive; note the "-" symbol on one side of the capacitor package. These capacitors typically have a larger capacity than their ceramic counterparts and are used for bulk storage; this one is used to assist the battery when the LEDs turn on. This is necessary because button cell batteries are not designed to provide as much power as the LEDs can demand.
Stockton STEM Badge IC socket
Soldered legs.
Stockton STEM Badge button
The push-button switch will fit two ways. Orientation does not matter.
Stockton STEM Badge battery
The battery should sit snugly under the holder.
Stockton STEM Badge LEDs and button
Orange and yellow LEDS. The pushbutton switch allows a person to control the badge.
Stockton STEM Badge battery
Note the orientation of the holder; reversing it will make it difficult to insert the battery later.
Stockton STEM Badge IC socket
Soldering one leg first and checking that the socket is flat against the board avoids a simple mistake. If it is not flat, or otherwise misaligned simply re-heating the leg will help correct the issue. Once orientation and alignment is verified, solder the remaining legs. Sometimes a small shim, such as the black foam here, can help keep the board level and simplifies the task.
Stockton STEM Badge LEDs
Stockton STEM Badge IC
The IC pins need to be straight and line up with their receptacles in the socket.
Stockton STEM Badge battery
The battery holder is a simple metal cage that solders to the underside of the board.
Stockton STEM Badge resistor legs
The legs are then carefully bent to about 45 degrees to hold the resistor in place for soldering.
Stockton STEM Badge battery
Note the orientation of the battery. The "+" side contacts the battery holder.
Stockton STEM Badge decoupling capacitor
As with the resistors, the legs should be splayed a little to help hold it in place for soldering.
Stockton STEM Badge IC and socket
The legs of the chip need to be straight otherwise they will not properly insert into their positions in the socket. It is easy to bend or break the legs if care is not taken.
Stockton STEM Badge IC
When inserting the IC, firm but controlled pressure is needed to avoid bending the pins.
Stockton STEM Badge electrolytic capacitor
Orientation of this capacitor is important. There is a "+" symbol in the footprint of the component printed on the board; the "-" of the capacitor should be on the opposite side.
Stockton STEM Badge battery
It is possible for the holder to become hot during soldering; be careful when handling immediately after soldering.
Stockton STEM Badge decoupling capacitor
The capacitor should sit flush with the board.
Stockton STEM Badge LEDs
Stockton STEM Badge LEDs
All the LEDs have been soldered. Notice that they all have the same orientation; the flat edge is to the left.
Stockton STEM Badge decoupling capacitor
This ceramic capacitor is not orientation sensitive. Decoupling means it absorbs electrical noise and is used to filter the power feeding the microcontroller.
Stockton STEM Badge resistor legs
The legs are trimmed, the excess removed with side-cutters.
Stockton STEM Badge resistor legs
Soldered legs; only a small amount of solder is needed and it heat should be applied only briefly.
Stockton STEM Badge IC socket
The IC socket should lay flat against the board.
Stockton STEM Badge IC
Make sure the IC is correctly aligned before pushing it in.
Stockton STEM Badge resistor legs
The legs are passed through the board holes; they may need pulling firmly, but not too firmly, with pliers to pull the resistor body flush with the board.
Stockton STEM Badge button
As with the IC socket, soldering one leg first and verifying component alignment will help prevent easy mistakes.
Stockton STEM Badge IC socket
Note the orientation of the indent at the upper edge of the IC socket.
Stockton STEM Badge boards
The badge printed circuit board (PCB) comes in several colors.
Stockton STEM Badge resistor legs
The resistor legs need to be bent in order to insert them into the board.
Stockton STEM Badge LEDs
LEDs have a flat edge on one side of their case.
Stockton STEM Badge microcontroller
The chip is an inexpensive "PIC" microcontroller; this runs a program that controls the LEDs.
Baby Groot
Treefrog
Cables everywhere
X and Z axis
Hotend fan
Z-axis motor mounts
Print head cables
Taking shape
Z-axis motor mounts
Printhead rear
Testing the slide of the bed
Printhead front
Y-axle idler pulley
First print in progress
The cables have to go somewhere
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Spot the OSH Park board!
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Merlin
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Tokina 19-35mm An exceptionally rainy day. Picture taken from inside the car!
IMG 4113
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Jupiter Meade 10" Newtonian, Sony DSC-P1, TeleVue zoom @8mm.
Conditions were not good enough for my ordinary digital camera to see the satellites, though they were plainly visible with the human eye.
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Tokina 19-35mm An exceptionally rainy day. Picture taken from inside the car!
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grbl
The grbl controller; underneath this stepper driver is an Arduino Uno and a breakout board.
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Merlin and the Squirrels again 2002-04-28
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Tokina 19-35mm An exceptionally rainy day. Picture taken from inside the car!
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Tokina 19-35mm An exceptionally rainy day. Picture taken from inside the car!
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Tokina 19-35mm An exceptionally rainy day. Picture taken from inside the car!
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Stop looking at me
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What do you want?
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The Moon Meade 10" Newtonian, Sony DSC-P1, Meade Plossl 26mm
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You're looking at me
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Sigh, it's tough, being a Cat
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The Moon Meade 10" Newtonian, Sony DSC-P1, Meade Plossl 26mm
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Merlin and the Squirrels again #2 2002-04-28
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Saturn Meade 10" Newtonian, Sony DSC-P1, Meade Plossl 26mm
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Saturn Meade 10" Newtonian, Sony DSC-P1, Meade Plossl 26mm
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The Moon Meade 10" Newtonian, Sony DSC-P1, Meade Plossl 26mm
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You're still doing it
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Saturn Meade 10" Newtonian, Sony DSC-P1, Meade Plossl 26mm
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Saturn Meade 10" Newtonian, Sony DSC-P1, Meade Plossl 26mm
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The Moon Meade 10" Newtonian, Sony DSC-P1, Meade Plossl 26mm
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Saturn Meade 10" Newtonian, Sony DSC-P1, Meade Plossl 26mm
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The Moon Meade 10" Newtonian, Sony DSC-P1, Meade Plossl 26mm
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Merlin
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Saturn Meade 10" Newtonian, Sony DSC-P1, Meade Plossl 26mm
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The Moon Meade 10" Newtonian, Sony DSC-P1, Meade Plossl 26mm
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Saturn Meade 10" Newtonian, Sony DSC-P1, TeleVue zoom @8mm
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Saturn Meade 10" Newtonian, Sony DSC-P1, Meade Plossl 26mm
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The Moon Meade 10" Newtonian, Sony DSC-P1, Meade Plossl 26mm
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Saturn Meade 10" Newtonian, Sony DSC-P1, TeleVue zoom @8mm
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The Moon Meade 10" Newtonian, Sony DSC-P1, Meade Plossl 26mm
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The Moon Meade 10" Newtonian, Sony DSC-P1, Meade Plossl 26mm
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Caught in the act
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XC-999 CCD in home-made primary focus mount The XC-999 is a high-performance CCD colour video camera shown here attached to the 10" Newt. with a home-made mount.
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Tokina 19-35mm An exceptionally rainy day. Picture taken from inside the car!
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Laptop and stuff 2002-11-23 Again, notice the image of the Moon.
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XC-999 CCD and the DIY mount The plumbing fitting is a two-piece plug, one part of which fits snufly into the 2" lens fitting.
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The Meade 10" and my laptop 2002-11-23 Notice the image of the Moon on the laptop screen and the XC-999 in the focuser..
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Who, me?
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The meade 10" and gubbins 2002-11-23 The cables and stuff - it was a cold 0°C that night.
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Gubbins under the 'scope, 2002-11-23 The Hauupage MPEG2 encoder (lid off, the fan was to noisy so it's disconnected) and other bits and pieces.
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The Moon on my laptop 2002-11-23 This was a live image of the Moon, at the time.
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XC-999 CCD and the DIY mount The mount uses the 2" fitting for the Meade 10" Newt. and a 2" PVC "plug" normally used for plumbing applications.
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View of XC-999 CCD through the tube Image taken in front of the correcting lens of the 10" Newtonian with the CCD in place.
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Meade LDX55 10inch Schidt-Newtonian
Meade LDX55 10" telescope The Meade LDX55 10" Schmidt-Newtonian reflecting telescope, setup in my living room (to make sure all the bits are there!)
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Program AE
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Moon029
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Tokina 19-35mm An exceptionally rainy day. Picture taken from inside the car!
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CRW 6398 RJ
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Tokina 19-35mm An exceptionally rainy day. Picture taken from inside the car!
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Tokina 19-35mm An exceptionally rainy day. Picture taken from inside the car!
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Tokina 19-35mm An exceptionally rainy day. Picture taken from inside the car!
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Tokina 19-35mm An exceptionally rainy day. Picture taken from inside the car!
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Aperture f/1.4
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Tokina 19-35mm An exceptionally rainy day. Picture taken from inside the car!
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IMG 6332
IMG 6352
IMG 6292
Aperture f/1.4
143 4357
143 4365
IMG 6290
Aperture f/1.4
143 4361
IMG 6307
IMG 6841
Tokina 19-35mm
IMG 6291
Aperture f/1.4
IMG 6845
Tokina 19-35mm An exceptionally rainy day. Picture taken from inside the car!
IMG 6353
IMG 6336
143 4323
IMG 6311
143 4327
IMG 6313
IMG 6306
143 4359
IMG 6315
143 4384
IMG 6322
Moon028
143 4337
IMG 6345
IMG 6848
Tokina 19-35mm An exceptionally rainy day. Picture taken from inside the car!
143 4385
143 4374
IMG 6351
143 4313
IMG 6293
Aperture f/1.4
143 4377
IMG 6331
IMG 6312
IMG 6319
IMG 6853
Tokina 19-35mm An exceptionally rainy day. Picture taken from inside the car!
IMG 6852
Tokina 19-35mm An exceptionally rainy day. Picture taken from inside the car!
143 4328
IMG 6333
IMG 6320
IMG 6847
Tokina 19-35mm An exceptionally rainy day. Picture taken from inside the car!
IMG 6855
Tokina 19-35mm An exceptionally rainy day. Picture taken from inside the car!
IMG 6335
IMG 6314
145 4529 RJ
143 4325
IMG 6321
IMG 6854
Tokina 19-35mm An exceptionally rainy day. Picture taken from inside the car!
IMG 6334
145 4534 RJ
IMG 6394
144 4455 RJ
145 4530 RJ
144 4412 RJ